A good cook on what makes a cookbook good

A birthday tribute to the one and only, Karen Miller.

I love cookbooks - I grew up in a sea of them. If you’ve ever been to my family home, you know that the house is overflowing with cookbooks that my Mum has collected. They are stockpiled away in bookshelves and piled high on the bar between our kitchen and living room. They lie open on the kitchen counter, dog-eared and weighted down mid-recipe. Newer releases or acquisitions sit on our coffee table, ready to be flipped through for future research.

I love cookbooks so much that we designed them to be on display in our own kitchen, but I find myself not picking them up as often as I should. There is no shortage of recipes in the world, that now come in all forms, a far cry from the index cards that used to be passed down generations. Now we have food blogs, Instagram, newsletters, TikToks (that you have to watch 1000 times over to catch each step), and a plethora of new cookbooks coming out at a near constant rate. I find myself suffering with the experience of online recipes where I get an uninspiring monologue related to banana bread, five pop-up ads, potentially a computer virus, and then finally a recipe. I share this sentiment with friends who are avid home cooks as well - why aren’t we picking up our cookbooks more and actually trying new recipes? There is comfort, value, and practicality in being able to cook without one, but I also think the joy in trying something new is important to rediscover.

My mother is a curator of taste across all facets, but if there’s one thing to spotlight - she is an excellent cook. So much so that she left the corporate world to explore her passions around food and hosting. Everything I have learned about my ways in the kitchen and appreciation for food is from her, so it felt right to give her the spotlight and honor her on her birthday! From someone who has written recipes and contributed to cookbooks herself, to reviewing them and reading them like bibles - I asked her a few questions on what makes a cookbook good.

Ally: What is your favorite cookbook of all time?

Karen: That is the proverbial question because it depends. I have been cooking for over 50 years and my answer has probably changed 50 times, if not more. I have so many, but I have always justified it by saying if I get one good recipe out of a cookbook, that is enough. If it inspires you to do it again and again, then that cookbook was worth every penny. I may need to come back with the right answer for that.

We will circle back to that one. What do you think makes a cookbook special, or why do you find yourself returning to certain ones?

The story. I don’t want a book that just has recipes. I want the writer to tell me why they cook a certain way. As an avid cookbook reader, I actually read them. I think this helps with being self-taught and builds your skills. It’s all about the story and making it resonate.

If I’ve gone to a restaurant and had a great meal or a memorable experience, being able to recreate that meal or share the same sentiment as the chef is so special to me.

The Silver Palate did a very good job of why to do something or how to make them. This is probably the book that got me into cooking for my friends and colleagues. Another book of that era is Nantucket Open House Cookbook, one that means a lot to me because I bought it on my honeymoon in Nantucket.

What’s the secret sauce to a good recipe?

The writer explaining why certain ingredients or techniques are important for the end result. And reading the recipe ahead of time - nobody ever does this. It’s not just ingredients and instructions. Most people don’t have the background knowledge, whether it is chemistry or cooking. A little explanation can go a long way.

What do you do, or what do you turn to, when you find yourself in a cooking rut?

I read cookbooks. Maybe one I haven’t looked at for a while or one that is new. Cookbooks have changed dramatically in the last 50 years - they used to be just recipes and now they are stories and photographs. The stories and photos can inspire you and take you places you might not be able to go. I am not a huge fan of cooking shows these days, opting for more travel-style shows, such as Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown.

Also going to the farmers markets, especially in the summertime or in places like LA, the produce can be so inspiring. This is the way I shop whenever I am able to, let the seasons guide you.

What are your pantry essentials to always have a meal on deck?

Salt. Lemons. Olive Oil. Maple Syrup. Pasta.

What would your last meal be?

Simple fresh tomato sauce made with fresh garlic and fresh basil. Served over spaghetti.

Anything to drink or for dessert?

Just that. It’s the simplicity of it. After being sick or busy at work, it’s the only meal I crave. It balances me, it’s comfort.

What’s your favorite thing to be picky about?

Ingredients. Understand where your food is coming from, who grows it. When I go to the market, I don’t just buy the produce, but I meet the farmers, talk to them and get to know them. I buy flour milled locally. It is more effort, but it is about caring where and who your ingredients come from.

Back to the cookbooks. Can we at least know a few of your favorites?

• Anything by Nigel Slater. He makes a recipe a great story.

• The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters. Her simplicity.

• Gateau: The Surprising Simplicity of French Cakes by Aleksandra Crapanzano. Making cake baking as simple as it should be.

• The River Cafe Cookbook by Rose Gray & Ruth Rogers.

• Veg-Table by Nik Sharma. I recommend this book to absolutely everybody.

• Where the River Narrows by J-C Poirier. An ode to my Quebec heritage.

• Via Carota: A Celebration of Seasonal Cooking from the Beloved Greenwich Village Restaurant by Jody Williams, Rita Sodi, Anna Kovel

I hope her words of wisdom inspire you, as they have me, to break out the cookbooks, visit the market, and cook something new for someone you love. Happy birthday, Mum - I love you more than you love cookbooks.